The friendly, family-run Hotel Ulli is in the heart of the Arlberg, Austria’s largest linked ski area. It’s just 50m from the boot room to the nearest lift, and at the end of the day you can almost ski back to the hotel door. Inside, the décor is traditional alpine with carved wooden beams, a crackling open fire and lots of cosy armchairs. Upstairs in the spacious bedrooms, plush carpets and crisp white walls put a modern twist on typical Austrian design.

Forget Lech and St Anton. This is the exclusive spot of Austrian skiing - and it's nowhere near as showy. This is understated wealth. Posh hotels, top restaurants and restrained nightlife. Even the ski school is exclusive, since most instructors are hired privately or by the same clients each year. There is beautiful scenery, although the village of Zürs doesn't have quite the same charm as Lech. To maintain pristine slopes (and just a touch of exclusivity), only 14,000 skiers are allowed on the slopes at any one time. That's about the combined total of all of Lech and Zürs' residents, so no riff-raff, please…

The skiing is extensive - 110km locally, with another 150km provided by the 'Arlberg Ski' pass (this gives additional access to St. Anton and St. Christoph). Snow reliability is superb, while the skiing is mostly for intermediates. Experts have plenty of off-piste and there are better tough runs in Zürs than Lech. Beginners have good nursery slopes, but the other terrain is challenging – Zürs is not really the best place for skiers to learn. Boarders might suggest a few improvements for the nightlife, but this is a great spot for them to learn and improve.

Overall, Zürs is an even posher enclave within an already posh area. Lech has allowed itself into the package holiday brochures - Zürs wouldn't dream of it…