Tom Sojer, Ellmau

The Ski Welt area is one of the largest in Austria, with a total of 250km of pistes. However, its component parts make the territory rather similar, as it's basically made up of a number of smaller, lift- or bus-linked resorts. Ellmau (55km of runs) is probably the quietest of the resorts, with skiing that largely caters to the beginner and family market. There are great nursery slopes and a good ski school, although classes can be big. There is also reasonable cruising for intermediates of medium ability. Boarders will also find the Ski Welt a good place to learn, but there is only one park and half-pipe in the area (at Soll). 'Langlaufers' are well provided for. Unfortunately, Ellmau and its neighbours suffer from a poor snow record. They have tried to bolster natural snow with new snowmaking facilities, but it still remains a problem and queues often ensue.

Ellmau village itself is traditional, quiet and full of ambience. For nightlife, it's probably best to go to Soll. There aren't that many activities for non-skiers, either. Accommodation is mostly hotel-based and buses are needed to get to the lifts. Eateries on the mountain are surprisingly good, while village grub is found in the hotels, which serve mostly traditional Austrian fare. Overall, Ellmau is a quiet alternative to Soll, best for new skiers and boarders and those looking for a fairly traditional ski experience.