One of the resorts in the Graubunden area that has traditionally been overlooked by the UK skier, but it's getting more popular, and definitely deserves it
The Mountains
Laax has set itself up as a freestyler's paradise, with a wide, well equipped terrain park that isn't too scary for beginners, high up on the sunny mountain top. With its own drag-lift and a very cool cafe (called Cafe No-name), plus a well-kept halfpipe, they've cornered a lucrative market and found a lot of fans, as well as an annual spot on several international competition circuits – not least the UK's own British Championships.
This image serves the freeriders well too, as many people don't realise how much off-piste potential there is, very easily accessible in between the generous 220km of piste. After a good snowfall there are stashes all over the place, and many easy stretches right by the piste. Talking of the piste, most of it is wide open, and great for pushing yourself to go fast. There's just one home-run to Laax's base, which can get a bit slushy or icy by the end of the day. The pistes down towards Flims are wider, less steep, and great for beginners.
The Town
Visitors to Laax are most likely to stay around Murschetg, the bottom of the main chairlift. Until recently this was a huge carpark surrounded by hotels, but in recent years it's been vigorously developed to make a whole load more accommodation. There are lots of self-catering apartments, a few big hotels with restaurants below, and the famous Riders Palace hotel – all frosted glass and bare concrete walls, with the busiest bar and a huge nightclub in the basement.
For really excellent food head for some of the rustic restaurants down the road in Flims, or there's no end of pizza joints about. Laax's actual village is a bus ride away, only worth the visit for the chemist or supermarket. All of this is decent enough, but doesn't provide much extra – the reason to come here is for the excellent skiing.