Livigno, Alta Valtellina , Italy

Livigno, due to some strange legal and geographical reason, has tax-free status. Isolated in its own wind-swept valley across the border from St Moritz, Livigno is also the focal point for telemarkers in Europe. It's found at 1815m and this high altitude means excellent snow conditions, although the skiing is somewhat disrupted by the valley. A rather sprawling town, it's vital to choose your accommodation carefully if you want to be near the lifts. The mountain road can often be overrun by traffic. There isn't really that much for the non-skier, apart from plenty of tax-free bargains. Eateries are good off the snow and on, with local fare the norm. Nightlife is a bit limited, but what is on offer will be found at reasonably low prices.

As for the slopes (110km of runs), Livigno offers great stuff for beginners and intermediates, both boarders and skiers. Apart from a few black runs and off-piste, experts will find little challenge. You can also 'ski in, ski out'. The lift system is efficient enough to negate queues, but because the slopes are separate there can be a fair amount of inconvenience. Perhaps Livigno's biggest turn-off is the transfer time - it's three to five hours from the nearest international airport. It's great for snow, beginners and cheap shopping, but it's remote and a little soulless.

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